3 replies to this topic

[Smiley]

I'm Confused?????

Paid to have tub/shower put in.

Walls have Vapor Barrier for insulation.

Other than that, it's on studs as old tub was.

They trimmed drywall out, walls of shower walls are 6 inches shorter.

So Studs and insulation show.

Cut greenboard close and fill flange with Mud is my guessing.

How Do you get that Perfect line on tub entrance?
Is there a tool?

Also need to install new sink, mirror, lighting in the future.

Is it just better to bust drywall out and replace with new sheets?

Or cut out as I need over a stud and screw it back and mud it in?

With Your Expertise, Phil, what don't you have a Frame-breaking Adsense Blog?

[Phil]

Hi Vern,

I'm assuming you went with a fiberglass tub and matched wall enclosure instead of a ceramic/steel tub and tiled walls... (???)

It may be to late now, but, what should have been done is have a full greenboard wall installed behind the tub set. Mounting a tub/enclosure directly to the studs (in most states - even with a vapor seal) is against code. There is a good chance the nail or screw used for mounting the tub set has punctured the vapor seal. Moisture will be attracted to the screw/nail because of the lack of a insulation wall (greenboard at least).

If the wall is an outside wall it must have insulation along with a vapor seal. Even if the wall is connected to an outside wall there is a good chance the wall core will get cold during the winter. I'm from Chicago so I know first hand how cold it gets up there where you live. Taking hot showers with cold walls will create sweat around the fasteners and might lead to fastener failure.

Another reason why you want to have full walls behind fiberglass tub/shower enclosures is energy conservation. During the winter the tub/enclosure will act like a heat sink. Simular to the metal device covering your computer processor. Heat always runs from hot to cold and never the reverse. The tub/enclosure absorbs heat and dispurses it into the airspace behind it. Without a full wall behind the tub/enclosure you are attempting to heat the wall core during the winter. This problem is more realized in older structures due to the different construction/design used years ago.

***Perfect line on tub entrance***
I'm not quite catching what you mean here. Clould you explain it a little more, maybe a picture of what you are talking about???

If what I am thinking the problem is, the "Perfect Line" issue would have been non-existant if the tub/wall set was mounted to drywall instead the studs. All you would have needed is a thin line of caulk in the joint of the tub set and the wall.

For your vanity, mirror and lighting...

Personally, I always prefer to start with a blank canvas. At about $6.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet of drywall it is not cost or even labor prohibitive to replace it. If there is any chance you are moving any of the accessories away from their current locations then it would be better to cut out the old drywall (a large section) and replace with new. It just looks better. Patching is easier when dealing with a wallboard seam instead of a section of fill behind a light fixture, stronger wall.

One item of concern would be the electric. Always, Always, Always mount a light fixture to a electric box. Never mount a light fixture to a stud. If you are going to move the fixture away from its current location you will need to mount a new box. Since you are in Illinois I'm guessing you have conduit running between your steel electric boxes. THE CONDUIT/BOXES ARE GROUND! Ground is critical in a bathroom for GFIC use.

Down here in the south we run a romax type 14-3 between plastic boxes. The third wire being a bare ground wire inside the romax. I'm not a big fan of it but it cuts construction costs bigtime. I don't think you have this type of wiring up by you. Construction code is a little bit more strict up there.

Anyway, getting back to moving your light fixture box. If you do have conduit you can safely, in most cases, run what is called a pig-tail. A Pig-tail is nothing more than a wiring extension cord of sorts. With your conduit you will want to run a 14-3 flexable BX type of pig-tail. If you do run a pig-tail, check with a local electrician to see what the maximum length can be. It varries from location to location. Make sure you get a good ground. Use grounding screws in the old and new electric boxes.

You may have to get creative to mount an electric box to a stud. If the vertical studs don't provide that perfect spot for your new fixture you can install horizontal studs for box mounting. Just make sure you securely fasten the new studs to the old ones. Before sealing up the wall, do place a cover over the old electric box (light fixture mount box). You may have to dismount the old box from the stud and remount it to move it rearward a little bit to clear your new drywall.

Let me know if you need any more info Vern. I love the subject and I am sure it is good for the Smiley Forum SEO.

Take Care,
Phil

I'm Confused?????

Paid to have tub/shower put in.

Walls have Vapor Barrier for insulation.

Other than that, it's on studs as old tub was.

They trimmed drywall out, walls of shower walls are 6 inches shorter.

So Studs and insulation show.

Cut greenboard close and fill flange with Mud is my guessing.

How Do you get that Perfect line on tub entrance?
Is there a tool?

Also need to install new sink, mirror, lighting in the future.

Is it just better to bust drywall out and replace with new sheets?

Or cut out as I need over a stud and screw it back and mud it in?

With Your Expertise, Phil, what don't you have a Frame-breaking Adsense Blog?

[Smiley]

Hi Phil!

Dang, you Know Your Stuff!

Just have Vaper Barrier insulation between studs.
Fiberglass tub/shower, Aker by Maxx
w/ Basco $350.00 Glass doors

Tub/Shower flanges is screwed into 2X4's.
Leaves a 1/4 inch lip and screws aren't flush.
The lip is 1 and 1/4 inch wide

I'm seeing 2 double studs up the wall in the
front on both sides and 6 inches of wall studs
and insulation at the top of the 3 walls.

Just trying to fill/close everything back in.

Read in a google search, a guy mudded in the
flange and hadn't cracked for 5 years.

All my walls are painted drywall, probably rock
sheet or whatever it's called.

This house is a 3 bedroom ranch built in 1982
w/attached garage. Very inexpensive to heat and cool.
My highest gas bill in the winter is around $130.00.

The house is solid, no cracks in foundation, new roof, walls
are in good shape.
After 28 years, seals in windows are shot, all need replaced,
vinyl flooring is shot, carpet actually is in decent shape after
28 years but needs replaced(last project).
Compressed board siding is decent, just needs re-painted.
All doors need taken down, lightly sanded and restained.
All molding needs replaced.
All lights/fixtures need replaced.

Will get Cental Air in next spring, all duct work is under house
in a 3 foot high crawl space, so will be easy to do.

Step by Step, I'll get there!

I do need to learn Drywall!
There is so many things a person can change!
And not very expensively.

[Smiley]

Phil!

You should of told me.....

Cut, Screw, Tape, Mud, Sand!

Silicone along tub meeting.

This shit is easy!

Greenboard for Bathroom(water Resistant)!

All sealed up!

Am awaiting cracks now, before finishing.

Thinking of not painting but putting up 1 inch colored
glass sheets to ceiling in tub area.

Also learned Semi-Gloss and Gloss paint is water resistant.